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Not sure what it’s called but you get it on shawl edgings a lot As you work knit and purl stitches differently, it gives a nice edging for things in ribbed patterns, and it doesn’t matter what sort of rib. Good for things like hats if worked top-down. Very good for toe-up socks, but you wouldn’t want to do it over a lot of stitches (i.e. It seems like everything will unravel, but it really doesn’t! You can remove the waste or spare yarn you used for the cast on and the edge will look pretty and neat and stretchy. (You’re slipping the knit stitches and purling the stitches you slipped in the last round.Ĥ) Now you can work normal k1, p1 rib as normal. (You’re knitting the stitches you slipped last time, and slipping the stitches you purled)ĭ) * Slip 1 as if to purl with the yarn in the back, p1 * all the way around. The majority of the time you sew with felt youll be sewing where the stitches will be visible Tie a regular old knot (like the one I showed using a single thread) and butt the knot up against the felt as best you can.
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(You’re slipping the knit stitches from the last round and purling the YOs.)Ĭ) * K1, slip 1 as if to purl with the yarn in the FRONT * all the way around. When you tie off on felt, youll want to hide the thread end.
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Now you have double the number of stitches you started withī) * Slip 1 as if to purl with the yarn in the back, p1 * all the way around. It will work with dpns, or on two circulars, or using magic loop.Ī) * K1, YO * all the way around. Now drop the waste yarn and carry on with the proper yarn you’ll be using.Ģ) Join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist. There are four steps:ġ) Cast on HALF the required number of stitches using a piece of spare or waste yarn. Instructions are written for working in the round. This technique is pretty quick and simple, and the only special equipment you need is a piece of spare or waste yarn.
#Ezs sewn bind off free#
I picked up the method detailed below from a free Regia sock-knitting leaflet somewhat poorly translated from the German and missing a rather important stitch in row two. There are lots of ways of doing it, see for example for 1x1 ribbing examples (there are ways of doing a tubular cast-on for 2x2 ribbing, too). Repeat steps 2 – 5 until you have bound off all your stitches.A tubular cast-on gives an exceptionally neat, and rather stretchy, cast-on edge for ribbing. Step 5: Drop both the purl and knit stitch from your main needle.Step 4: Insert your tapestry needle into the purl stitch on your main needle again, this time going purlwise.Step 3: Insert your tapestry needle into the dropped knit stitch, purlwise, and through the next knit stitch on your main needle (it should be the second stitch on your main needle) and pull tight.(It should be the first stitch on your main needle). Step 2: Insert your tapestry needle in the next purl stitch on your main needle knitwise and pull tight.NOTE: If the first stitch is a purl stitch, insert the needle through the first two stitches and drop them both. Step 1: With your waste yarn threaded through a tapestry needle, insert the needle into the first stitch on your main needle purlwise and pull all the way through.NOTE: You will need a tail that is 3-4 times the length of your finished edge.Prep Row 2: Knit the knits and slip the purls with yarn in front.Prep Row 1: Knit the knits and slip the purls with yarn in front.